How to choose a Bra?
Here you will learn step by step how to choose the size of the bra yourself (you can do it! 🙂) and then the easiest way to know if you and your bra are made for 🙂
Do you have any questions? Feel ready to contact us!
What is bra size?
The bodice size consists of a number and a letter. For example: 75C, 80G, 65J , or 34C, 36G, 30J . No matter what company and size – the rule is the same everywhere: the number is the determination of the size under the bust, and the letter is the determination of the size of the bowl. Sizes in the style of "36" or "XL" are not the sizes of Real Bras, although sometimes such can be found on the tags. From bras that are not marked with a size under the bust and the size of the bowl, it is best to stay away preventively if you want to carefully choose the size. Alternatively, an exception can be made for some swimsuits or sports tops (so long as the latter are not treated as full-bodied sports bras, unless you have really no need to support the bust), or fashionable recently braletek, but in general: each classic bra should be marked with a size under the bust, also called the circumference under the bust, and the size of the bowl.
Bra tag. 14G, 80I, 36G... – these are the size designations according to different "sizes". All consist of a number and a letter.
Meanwhile, when thinking about the size of a bra, most people mean the size of a bowl. She wears A, I wear C, and Jadzia has a big bust and wears D. Forget thinking like that once and for all if you want to have a well-fitting bra. In bra sizes, the letter itself without a number means nothing! Another is the size of bowl D for size 75, different for 95. I will write about it in detail separately – first we will deal with the number, that is, the size under the bust.
The raise – that's where we start
The first and most important rule of choosing a bra is: choosing the size of the bra always starts with the size under the bust. Not from a bowl! The raise is our starting point. The second part of the size of the bodice, that is, the size of the bowl, depends on the former. Therefore, we deal with the bowl only after determining the size under the bust.
The size under the bust depends on what our dimensions are in this place, specifically – the circumference of the body under the bust. That is, directly under the breasts (not at the waist). It also depends on how our body is built: whether under the breasts and at the same height at the back (on the back) we are rather slim, hard or even bony, or whether we are soft, oily. In teeter women, the body can also have different density: it can be compacted and firm, or soft and easily kneadable. All this – not only the visible carcass itself – affects the size under the bust. So it's no surprise that your obese friend wears 75, and you, tall, slim, muscular and with a wide chest – too.
On a squeeze – we measure
Okay, but how do you finally choose this size? You can always go to the brafitter (List of Good Shops), but if you do not have a grazed salon near such services, or just want to explore the matter yourself, the easiest way to take a centimeter of tailoring and face. Measure yourself by straping your body with a tailor's scoop directly under your chest. Make sure that the scoop is positioned at the same level in the front as the rear – otherwise you will get the wrong result.
And now important: with this scoop you need to squeeze a little. The measurement under the bust should be rather tight. It's about squeezing everything that's soft and kneadable – not about breaking your ribs, so don't overdo it. Do not cause yourself pain. Squeeze firmly, but do not sneer 🙂 do not necessarily have to exhale as much as possible, but also do not do it in full breath.
Then we record the result and wonder what is closest to this result the size under the bust, but after rounding down. For example, we got 85 out of the measurement. This, contrary to appearances, is NOT our size under the bust. With such dimensions I would recommend a maximum of 80. If we came out 73 – there are two possibilities: either we will fit 70 (if we are rather slim and firm and we do not have at the height of the sub-breasted thick layer of soft, compressible tissue), or 65 (if we have more body fat or soft body around the perimeter). As for how much specifically should be subdued from the measured dimension under the bust, there are many schools. The truth is that it depends on a lot of factors – on the aforementioned consistency of the body, our sensitivity to pressure, or finally the flexibility of a particular bra that we want to choose. The rule of principle is that we practically never round the size under the bust up, though.... and there are exceptions to this rule. But if under the bust you are 68, and you wear a bodice 75 – then it is very likely that it is chosen wrong.
[Note: the above figures are for European/Polish sizes, as they are for English sizes – I am discussing here.]
Okay, so if we can't always and 100 percent predict the size that suits us, what do we do? Try. The calculated size under the bust is just the starting point for the emaciated, not once and for all fixed size. This is just the beginning.
Not squeezing, but holding
But wait – you'll ask, why should we squeeze? After all, it's not a corset, but a bra. Squeezing at this height we do not slim anything ... Full agreement! It's not that we're tight, it's about the bra belt (that is, everything that fits our body in the bra) sticking to our body. When measuring under the bust, we use a non-stretchable scoop, and our bodice will stretch after all. Therefore, we do not measure loosely, and the result is rounded down. The size under the bust must be chosen so that the bra sticks to our body at the same height at the front and back. So it must be "tight" enough that after inserting the breast into the cups and pulling the straps to the right height, the front (that is, the bust) does not fall down, and the back does not go up. That's it. If this rule is met – it means that we have a well-chosen size under the bust!
The back of the bodice should form a line more or less straight on our backs. If it forms an arch, the shape of sad lips – this usually means that the size under the bust is too large.
There are exceptions to this rule, too. There are, for example, bras in which the wings (those pieces of material at the back, between the side and the clasp) are so cut out that their lower edge is not straight, and rises a little upwards. Such a bodice will never lie perfectly straight, because it can not. Besides, the rules are to serve us, not the other way around. If the clasp is 4 centimeters high on our backs, there will be no hole in the sky from it.
Because, in fact, it's not about a straight line like a ruler, it's about the bra effectively sustaining our breasts. If the bodice is too loose, the bust will go down, and the back will go up and out of the support of the thread. The tighter you shorten the straps, the higher the clasp on your back will go, and the breasts will stay in the same place anyway. Without attaching the bodice to the body, anchoring it at a certain height at the back – there is no breast support.
When is it too tight?
In short: when we are just uncomfortable and we constantly dream of unseaing the bodice. When it is difficult for us to fasten it without strong muscle work and tension of gum threatening to break (us or bra). When we can not breathe freely. When gums drink painfully and bite into the body. When the bodice leaves deep, non-disappearing marks on our body (ordinary pinkish marks that disappear quickly after the photo are normal – sometimes they stay even from socks, such a feature of the skin). When the bodice goes down (if below the bust our body circumference is narrower, behind the tight bodice will "want" to go down).
NOTE: Novices sometimes confuse the tightness of the bowls with the tightness of the size under the bust. We are often tight, because the cups are too small – breasts not fit in the cups push on the bra on the front and it gets too tight in general, also at the back. To make sure you're not wrong with too small a circumference with too small bowls, put on the bodice the other way around – with bowls on your back and down, you can then fasten it on the front. Is it still too tight, or is it already pretty OK or even loose? If the latter, try a larger bowl size and check that the tightness has not fleeted.
If you do not feel any of the above discomfort, and you are simply not accustomed to the fact that under the bust you have some tightly fastened strap, because all your life you wore loose bras – try to wait a little, perhaps after a while you will stop feeling the bodice at all, or maybe you will feel it only slightly. If you have a large bust – usually a well-supporting bodice is to some extent felt, because specific forces act on it.
On which embroidery?
The most practical is a new bra fastened with the most beautiful clasp. Materials stretch over time and it is best to have these tighter embroidery in stock, in time for the bra to stretch. The method of measuring and counting described above is precisely to fasten the bra to the most beautiful clasp. Unless you always like to have a loosening stock – for example, your body sometimes swells, or you often have weight fluctuations – then it will be better to choose a bra a little looser and fasten it to the middle hooks.
If you have been charmed by a model, and the sizes start with a higher circumference than your size (for example, from 70, and you wear 65tki), then sometimes you can compromise and fasten from the beginning the most difficult, although this threatens to make it too loose over time. However, if you do not wear the bra often, and if the materials are of good quality – it will serve you longer. I myself have in the collection models of different body
Hapless rollers on the back
One of the main reasons why women choose to wear loose bras is the fear that bulges and rollers will appear on the back or sides above the bra belt. We would like to be perfectly smooth. And here I will disappoint you: the bust support is irreconcilable with the perfect smoothness of the back. Any material, if it is to stick to the body and not ride on it – it must delve into it a little. Our body is not made of hard plastic, but of soft tissues. It is covered with muscles, adipose tissue and skin. The thicker the layer of this softness, and the more fat in it – the cavities will be greater.
But I can also comfort you. Very often it is not too tight or properly selected, but behind loose bras cause the biggest bulges on the back and sides. Pictorially speaking, behind the loose strap of the bodice at the back moves upwards, pushing the body shaft in front of you like a bulldozer. Properly selected would sit on the spot and the bulge would be much smaller.
In addition to not too loose bodice, a good way to rollers is to draw a bodice with a wider back. If you have more body fat and are afraid of rollers – give up models resembling two cloths on strings like a triangle bikini. The wider the sides and back, the less pressure will be on the body, because it will spread over a larger area, and the depressions will decrease.
Under the bust – and what happens next?
If we know more or less what sizes under the bust can suit us and are inflated with knowledge of how the back of the bodice should lie, it's time to get to the measures. Before we do this, it will be necessary to determine more or less what bowls will be suitable for us with the given sizes under the bust. It is worth knowing that the most common mistake made by women is to choose, complete with too loose size under the bust, too small bowls.
What is the size of a bowl?
The size of the bowl is marked with the letter – e.g. A, D, FF, K... It tells us what size the breast will fit in a given bra. However, this is a big simplification. More specifically, the letter of the bowl depends on the difference between the circumference in the bust and the size under the bust. Therefore, to calculate the size of the bowl, we will need a size under the bust and a circumference in the bust.
And now a little surprise. Instead of starting by measuring circuits, counting and size tables, I'll leave the technique for later. I suggest that we first focus on what effect we want to achieve: how should the bodice bowl be properly selected and how to recognize that it is too small or too large?
And before that, I will remind you once again that you must abandon the most popular bra myth. If you think of yourself: I have a C, Zosia has a B, and Gosia has a big D – forget about it. In the size of a bra, the letter itself, without a number, means nothing. "You have an F? You don't have such a big bust!" she told many bras. Why is this crap? Because the size of the bowl F for size 75 is different, different for 65! D doesn't always mean Big, and G is no Giant that no one has seen. For example, I wear G. 🙂
This is what g-bowl bras look like in different sizes under the bust. Do you see that they differ in size? Compare e.g. 80G and 65G – 80G is much bigger! In bra sizes, the letter itself, without a number, means nothing. [The bras in the picture are polish in size. Ava's AV1710 Strapless Snowflake. Here you will find a review of the strapless brand Avy in black in size 85F].
Therefore, you are not surprised if, as a result of reading this text, you choose a completely different letter of the bowl than you usually wore. You are not a letter. What's more – You're not a size. It is very possible that in your drawer there will be bras of different sizes, and they will all fit.
This poster was created from photos of participants of the Lobby Biuściay forum wearing G and GG bowls (GG in British size is a size more than G). Take a closer look. Are all breasts the same size? Not! But they all carry a G or GG bowl! 🙂
Bun – your enemy
In short, a properly selected bra bowl is one that covers the entire breast, not just part of it. This does not mean that a properly selected bowl must cover the entire breast. This is what only built-in bra styles do (full bowl – full cup in English). In an average bra, the upper part of the breast is visible. But visible does not mean: pouring beyond the edge of the bowl.
The breast in a well-chosen bowl can not form a bulging over the bowl (in the bra jargon "rolls"). In a well-chosen bra we have two breasts, not four or more. This is best seen from your profile. If the edge of the bowl is cut into the breast, forming a bulge over the statuator, it usually means that the bowl is too small. Sometimes such insting is only the fault of the too closed shape of the bowl or, for example, too tightly pulled, inflexible ribbon sepped on the edge of the bowl - then it is enough to change the design of the bodice. Large "rolls", however, rather guarantee that the culprit is too small in size. The bowl, from which the breast sneezes on all sides like a cake from a girl, is definitely too small. The profile of the breast in the bodily should be smooth.
Horror! Four breast: we can stop this nightmare! Advertising of the Canadian store The Boobie Trap – a slightly overheated example for small bowls and the effect of buns
Another place where buns can form is the armpit area. A favorite trick of some employees of lingerie shops, when they do not have enough large bowls, is the maneuver of pushing the breast under the armpit, under the guise of laying breasts or smoothing the bowl. Then the front is done smoothly, but under the armpits something appears suspiciously ... If you meet in a store with such "antibrafitting", do not come there any more. The place of the breast is where they are, that is, generally on the front – not on the sides of the body.
Breasts are poured out of bowls at the top and under the armpits.
The third place where you can see bulges at too small a bowl is... place under the breasts. Very often we skip this place because we do not see it exactly. If the bra underccups press on the lower part of the breast and squeeze the rollers under the bodice, at the bottom, it also means that the bowl is too small. In a properly selected bodily, the wire adheres exactly to the body just below the breast and there is nothing right to get out there.
Breasts squeezed behind small bowls escape the top and the lower.
Bridge to bridge
The sternum is a place on our body, located exactly between the breasts (underneath we have there an elongated, vertical bone connecting the ribs – bridge). In bra jargon, it is sometimes also said on the middle part of the bodice, which together bowls.
In a properly selected bodily shape, this part adheres to the body between the breasts. This applies to stains on undercuffs – because it is difficult to achieve this effect without a rack in the form of wires. So, if we have a bodice on the underpant, both wires between the breasts should adhere to the sternum. Bridge to the bridge. The ends of the wires can not protrude, hang in the air far from the sternum. They should sit politely in place, adhering exactly to the body between the breasts.
The undercardiomes adhere to the body between the breasts – they do not stand out.
Why is it so important? Breasts inseparable from the underpours on the sternum are mixed together. The bodice does not support them effectively and does not immobilize them, because there is no like. Two breasts together, especially large ones, form together one large, heavy object, which without any obstacles pours over us from one side of the bodice to the other. The most wavy, swaying busts are usually those that are not in the middle separated by the bodice bridge. Therefore, for large breasts, bras with under-the-bees are the best supporting ones.
Undercardiome around the breasts
The task of the bra is to separate the breasts and help to support them and immobilize them on the chest. The frame is the frame on which the front of the bodice is unbuttoned. In order for this frame to perform its function on the bust, the undercards must adhere to the body. But beware: it's about clinging to the body right next to the breast. That is: between the breasts (on the sternum), directly under the breasts and on the sides, right next to the breast. The entire arch of the undercover should lie on the chest, not falling away from it in any place, nor pressing the breasts themselves.
The wires adhere to the body under the breasts, between the breasts and behind the breasts, and the breasts fit in bowls. Photo: Freya
A very bad sign is that the ends of the underpant on the sides of the breast are drunk. If the underpant presses on the chest instead of lying politely on the cage – it usually means too small bowls. This situation is usually also associated with too loose circumference under the bust. If your bowls behave like too small hats pressed forcely on big heads, then... it is not difficult to guess that they are too small 😉 These hats should be put on to the end – that is, so that the wire accurately around the breast and lay smoothly on the chest around the breast.
If you do not suffer from bras on the undercrow, because you are uncomfortable in them – be sure to check that you are wearing the right size of the bowl. In the right size, undercardine most often do not cause problems – when they adhere smoothly to the body, they are not felt too much. Of course, even a properly selected bodice can be uncomfortable – then the reasons need to be looked for in the cut or materials. First, however, always check the size.
Where does the breast end?
Those of you who are just starting out with a good fit may not quite sense where their breasts end and where the body next door begins. This is especially true for the sides of the breast and the armpit area. Especially women with large breasts often do not know where the wire should lie in this place.
For simplicity, it is assumed that the tip of the wire on the side should aim (indicate) roughly in the middle of the armpit. However, this is only a certain approximation. This rule works well especially for medium and large breasts that start on the side of the body. However, it does not always work for small breasts, placed more in front.
Nightmare! "Shelf" – let's end this nightmare! It's also the result of too small bowls, and it's a few sizes. Pay attention to where is the lateral tip of the cup cup – it adheres to the side of the breast, not to the chest and is located very far from where the breast ends. IT HURTS! Such pressure can even cause inflammation in the breast.
And here's the note: the middle of the armpit does not mean: on the back. If, after removing the bodice, the trace of the flashcard is far behind the breast, it usually means that the bowls are too large, and therefore too wide. The bowl should end on the body roughly where the breast ends – no further.
It is also necessary to pay attention to the place under the breasts. With too large bowls, it happens that between the undercover and the breast we have a few centimeters of free space. It is also a sign of an incorrect fit, and sometimes – a negligent assumption of the bodice. When putting on a bra, let's make sure that the wire is exactly under the breast, not below (or even more so: in the air or on the chest!).
When wind and wires on the back
Above, we dealt primarily with small bowls – because this is the most common mistake. However, it happens that we choose bowls too large. If in a properly placed bra we have in the bowls a mass of empty space, especially from above (and the material folds, instead of clinging), it means that they are probably too large. A bodice with too large bowls will not stand or support our breasts properly.
It is also necessary to pay attention to the undercardine. If the undercardine lies far from the breast, especially because the sides, it is a sign of too large bowls. If we choose for the set a tight size under the bust, then too large and too wide bowl will be accompanied by too short the back of the bodice. As a result, we'll wrap ourselves behind big bowls, and if it weren't for the back-to-back undercards, we could even pretend everything is OK. Such a bodice will not hold our breasts properly, will not collect breasts from the sides and will be uncomfortable in the long run.
Put on your bra without cheating
All of the above tests make sense on one condition: that the bodice we are checking has been properly installed. If we do it just like that, we won't notice match errors, or we'll see completely different mistakes than they actually were made.
It turns out that not only are unsparing sellers in stores, but we too are able to cheat ourselves and our breasts in dozens of ways – so that a mismatched bra seems seemingly good. We put too small bowls on the tips of the breasts and pretend that everything is fine – and to be able to fasten, we increase the size under the breasts (the most common mistake). We push the breasts under the armpits so that they do not bulge over the cups in front. We lengthen the shoulder straps excessively for the same purpose. Or vice versa: we stretch the bowls with straps so that they seem too big to be properly selected.
All these tricks can be very easily unmasked by putting on the bodice correctly. How to do this – be sure to read this text.
Here's what we absolutely can't miss when putting on the bodice: after inserting the bodice, gently grab each breast into the bowl! 🙂 do this with your hand, with a movement that scoops your chest from under your armpits forward, towards the bowl. You can also apply my method: I do not wips, but "shake" the breasts into bowls. I lean over, grab the wires at the bottom, and shake the spring in the left-right direction. Then I straight up – and if the infamous buns show up somewhere, I know it's time to resize 🙂
In many women, bowls that, when negligently inserted, seemed too large, magically fill up after scooping up. And if they're too small, you can see it on your hand.
How to calculate a bowl?
Okay – but how do we even know what size of bowl to try on?
To begin with, abandon attachment to the size you wear. Especially if your size under the bust as a result of reading this text has just changed. If your size under the bust was previously 75 and the new measurements led you to a size 65 – then now you will definitely need another (further!) letter of the bowl.
Secondly, it is worth immediately preparing for the fact that you will try on several neighboring sizes. And if you buy online – that you may need to replace the purchase with a different size. You can also immediately order a few neighboring ones and send back the unmatched ones. First, however, we need to determine some preliminary size – the one from which we will start all the fun. If we do not have a living room with brafitting and bowls from A to K at hand, we need to cope with a size chart or one of the better calculators.
We measure the circumference in the bust
Let's say we already know our size under the bust. To get to know our magical initial letter, we will still need a circuit in the bust.
In the bust we measure without any squeezing. We put the scoop at the widest point of the bust, so that the front is exactly on the tops of the breasts. And just like the circumference under the bust – we make sure that it is on one level at the front and back.
If our breasts are more experienced in gravity/feeding/weight loss or have a very sloping shape by nature, it is best to do this measurement in a bra: not stiffened, but soft, lifting our bust to a decent height (it is usually assumed that the wart should be not less than half the shoulder-elbow distance, although of course it is a largely individual matter), but under no circumstances flattening our breasts, because then we will come out an understated result.
Brafitters sometimes recommend that you also take a measurement in the prompt, and on this basis they state what consistency and therefore compressiveness our bust has. Let us, for the simplety, stay with one ordinary measurement for the time being.
Having already had our circumference in the bust, we remember what size under the bust came out to us earlier (we remember – after rounding down!) and look into the size chart. We find our size under the bust and in the same row or column (depending on the structure of the table) we find the range of circuits in the bust, in which our circumference in the bust falls.
For example, I will use the UK size chart, which is used to select products from English lingerie manufacturers (e.g. Panache, Freya, Curvy Kate). Let's say that under the bust came out a size 34(75), and in the bust we have 108 cm.
Table of British bra sizes
This table shows the upper limits of the circumferences in the bust for which the individual bowls are intended. We with our 108 in bust and size 75 get caught on a bowl GG. This means that our initial UK size is 34GG.
This is, of course, just one of hundreds of size tables found on the web. It just so happens to be one of the most authoritative. Unfortunately, I can not say the same about the size tables of Polish producers (mostly) – for me they usually give incorrect results. The exception is the size calculator of Ewa Michalak, which, if you believe in the instructions, most often gives the correct result – for Ewa Michalak products. Because you also need to know that in the world of bras very often every manufacturer – these are different sizes of bowls. You can read more about the mess in bra sizes, especially above bowl D.
Do you already see why this note did not start with a table and measurement instructions? That's why – the measurement itself plus checking the table will not solve the matter of choosing the size of the bowl. This is just an introduction to the measures, fraught with a considerable risk of error. In order to choose a bowl – first of all, we need to learn how to lie correctly selected size.
The table is not an oracle
We already know that size tables don't always tell the truth. The first reason, unfortunately, is the carelessness and inconsistency of their creators. For some bra manufacturers, the bowl size tables they publish do not fit their own products. Here we are left with only trial and error. It is best to determine more or less the size under the bust and try several bowls of this size. For example, when trying a new Polish brand, I usually order a size 80H in the net, and then, if necessary, replace the size with another one.
However, even with a well-developed table, we can not count on the fact that the calculated size will definitely fit. At stake are different properties or errors of our measurement (in fact, each of us is measured a little differently), individual characteristics of construction (breast shape) or sensitivity to pressure (on which our comfort depends). And finally – in fact, two circuits, under the bust and in the bust, give only an approximate and uncertain picture of the actual size of our breasts.
For example, the place where tables fail very often is plus size women – those with larger circumferences under the bust. In the case of a heavier figure, there is a smaller percentage of body circumference on the bust itself than for a slim and busty person – large girls have large breasts, but often have a "large", soft back. And since we do not measure in the bust, unlike the measurement of the bust – these backs "fall" into our circumference in the bust. And yet the back despite the most sincere desires do not get into the bowls ... Therefore, women with wider circumferences often fit smaller bowl sizes than the table shows.
We also can not count on the fact that it will always fit us the same size. Exactly as with clothes. Do you have only one size in your closet? I bet neither of us can say that about ourselves. Now with bras it is exactly the same! 🙂 Even if the size is advised by a professional brafitter and in the Model X of the Y brand it fits us perfectly – let's not count on the fact that we can already buy all bras in this size. It's just impossible.
Despite all these problems and uncertainties – it's really worth fitting yourself (each) bra (I hope you still believe me 😉
Take your bust into your own hands! 🙂
As you can see, bra selection isn't just about measurement and calculation. These can only help us, be our starting point. The most important thing is to understand what the bra is used for, how it works and, therefore, how to fit into our bust such a size and model to work properly on our bust: it sustained, lifted, collected, relieved, gave shape and so on, and for this it was still comfortable.
In addition to scoops and tables, a professional brafitter can help us in a good lingerie store (we run the List of Good Shops – help develop it!). It's best to look for store reviews before you go there. Find out what size this store has – if you're having trouble fit in bowls, don't go to a store that only offers small sizes (sizes for bowl D are small). And above all, arm yourself with knowledge. Because the final decision to buy is made by you. Not a brafitter, not a friend you went to the store with – none of them know your bust the way you do. Brafitterka won't guess how you feel in the bra you're trying and whether you'll last all day in it. Not to mention the fact that not every brafitting shop provides it really well and honestly.
In conclusion: a little knowledge, the laws of physics and common sense, here is what the choice of bra 🙂
Now it's time for you – ask boldly and suggest what else I should write about! Feel ready to contact me.
If you want to read more about choosing a bra size – I invite you to the Brafitting category.
Explanations of the most important dates related to bras can be found in the Bra Glossnik.